I had a good amount of air dried walnut that I bought from a family friend for $2/board foot.  It was somewhat damaged in parts as it was barely covered for the last 20 years.  But, when I planed it down, there was a lot of good quality wood

Getting the boards ready to laminate for thicker pieces        

Getting the leg pieces glued up

Cut to length

I used a thin piece of wood to start making the curve, but it wasn't turning out consistent

I created a template instead of bending the board as above.  Make it more consistent and way easier

Sanding up to the line

These are just basically balanced on each other.  No joinery yet

Shaped the feet

Shaped the top stretchers

I wanted to be able to really dial in where I cut my mortises.  I got this old piece of plexiglass and made it into a new base for my old plunge router.  It worked GREAT

All the base pieces got a round over on the edges

Used another jig to cut exact width dados with my router.  I put the piece in between, sandwich it tight and the router then makes the corresponding cut on the matching piece.  This was the middle stretcher, which I'll take out of the legs

Cutting into the legs

Here are the two legs sandwiching the stretcher.  I'd reinforce with dowels

Also for repeatability, I created a little template to use where I wanted to mortise for my floating tenons.  I wanted to use the new router base some more so floating tenons it was

Milled my own tenons from hard maple        

Laying out on the feet and top stretcher where the mortise will go

Cutting the corresponding mortises in the leg verticals

In go the floating tenons.  I left them 1/16th wide on each side in case of any planning mishaps

Getting ready for glue up

Before final glue up, I cut the holes to eventually attach the top.  Elongated holes on the ends to allow for expansion and contraction

The walnut I had was 4/4 AT BEST and was going to be too thin to look right with the base.  I went out and got some 6/4 walnut for the top    

Lesson learned here.  My walnut was air dried.  The bought lumber was kiln dried.  One was red, one was brown.  Crap.  I'll address this later

The top glue up

At this point, the span seemed significant so I decided to add a middle support to the base

Hogging out material in the support piece at the drill press    

Getting ready to clean up with a chisel

Here I cut the table top to length (minus breadboards)

Scribe a line for the tenons

Cutting the channel for the tenons.  I'd go deep into these with the drill press/chisel where the tenons go

Testing the fit

I decided to do tenons instead of one big tenon all the way across

Marking the waste to remove

Test fit.  It was REALLY snug.  Eased up to it with my shoulder plan to get the final fit

I cut holes for the pins in the breadboards

I marked the hole center then moved it in 1/16th to drawbore it tight

Elongated the two outside holes for expansion and contraction

If you look down through the hole, you can see how the drawbore works as it's slightly offset

I only put glue on the center tenon

Pegs rounded to allow them to move through the drawn hole.  I could see them angles as they went around.  

Put glue only for the last mallet hit of the outside pegs so it was only glued to the breadboard board, not the tenon

Table top sanded and ready to go

I finally decided to use some brown tinted dye to bring the base closer to the color of the top and not as red.  It looks muted in this photo, but with the final finish on it was a pretty good match

You can see here that the boards I used for the top, a LOT of them were filled with sap wood.  I didn't particularly want this on my project so the bottom got them all.  

The top has minimal sap wood and a good amount of figure.  Despite slim pickings at the yard, I was ultimately happy with what I got

The base moved inside

I used threaded inserts in the top to be able to disassemble this later.  

In it's final home, until I die and my kids fight over it

The ends came out GREAT